A quick guide to what to know about pearls

A quick guide to what to know about pearls

Pearls are loved for their distinctive shape, colour, lustre and silky texture, which looks sophisticated but is achievable. Pearls are the only gemstone created by a living organism. 

Legend has it that the first pearl was discovered by a Chinese emperor who was enjoying a bowl of soup made from freshwater mussels. As he sipped the soup, he noticed a shiny object in the spoon - a tiny, perfectly round pearl! From that moment on, pearls became a symbol of wealth and power in China, treasured by royal families and the aristocracy alike.

But China was not the only civilisation to be enamoured of these enchanting gems. In ancient Greece, pearls were associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, and were often given as wedding presents. The Romans believed that pearls were the tears of the gods and they were often given on special occasions.

Pearls are the result of an irritant, such as sand, which has been trapped in the shells of certain molluscs in lakes, rivers or seas. The mollusc in turn coats the stimulus with a protein called nacre, and this is how pearls are formed.

There are basically 3 types of pearls: natural, cultured and artificial. 

Natural pearls form completely spontaneously, which makes them more valuable than cultured pearls because of their rarity. A natural pearl (often called an oriental pearl) is formed when an irritant is present in a certain type of oyster, mussel or mollusc. As a defence mechanism, the mollusc secretes a protein called nacre, which coats the stimulus. Layer by layer, this layer is deposited on the stimulus until a shiny pearl is formed.

Natural pearls are very rare and very expensive. Finding new natural pearls is extremely difficult due to water pollution, marine predators and the loss of oysters. That is why pearl earrings, pearl necklaces and other jewellery with pearls are almost always made with cultured pearls.

In cultured pearls, technicians insert a synthetic stimulus to stimulate the formation of nacre. The resulting nucleus is much larger than that of a natural pearl. The resulting pearl is cheaper than a natural pearl but just as beautiful.  

Regardless of the way the pearl is formed, the process usually takes several years. Mussels need to reach a mature age, which can take up to 3 years, at which point they need to be implanted or naturally receive an irritant. After the stimulus is in place, it can take another 3 years for the pearl to reach its full size. Often the stimulus can be rejected, the pearl becomes horribly deformed or the oyster dies due to disease or a number of other complications.

Imitation pearls are another matter. Usually a glass bead is simply dipped into a solution made from fish scales. This layer is thin and can wear off over time. The imitation can usually be distinguished by smelling it. Also, fake pearls are extremely slippery, whereas the nacre layers of real pearls are granular. Although these pearls can sometimes appear to be real at first glance, over time they do not look like real pearls - they change colour, leave fingerprints or the dye starts to crumble. 

Majorica pearls are the best known of the cultured pearls. 

Majorica pearls are artificial pearls made from natural materials, but of extremely high quality. They are made using a nucleus, which is coated with layers of mother-of-pearl in the same way as pearls grown in oysters. Thanks to the most advanced technology and extremely high production standards, these pearls are perfect and can all be the same size and colour. The entire production process is completed with a rigorous inspection of each pearl - after polishing, it is tested for its lustre and abrasion resistance. However, they are still artificial pearls and are far from being like natural or cultured pearls. 

TYPE OF PEARL 

There are four main types of pearls: freshwater, akoya, South Sea and Tahitian.

FRESHWATER

These pearls are formed in freshwater lakes, ponds, rivers and glaciers, which make up only 3% of the world's water. A single oyster can produce pearls up to 25 times! Freshwater pearls are slightly smaller than those created in saltwater, but they come in a variety of colours, including pale pink, white or cream, making them perfect for small jewellery such as rings. High-quality freshwater pearls, with their exceptional lustre and shape, are considered valuable and sought after by collectors.

AKOJA (AKOYA)

This pearl was the first pearl harvested in Japan in the 1920s and formed in the world's smallest saltwater oyster. These pearls are traditionally white and their round and symmetrical shape, iridescence and white hue make them ideal for earrings or necklaces. They are mainly found in Japan and China and are renowned for their high lustre and excellent roundness. Akoya pearls are valuable for their beauty, popularity and high quality. 

SOUTH SEA

These round and white pearls are the rarest of the cultivated varieties, developed in the sensitive oyster Pinctada maxima. This oyster produces pearls that are noticeably large and smooth, with a high lustre, and are best suited to striking jewellery, such as stud earrings or earrings with pendant shaped dangles. These pearls are found in Australian, Indonesian and Philippine waters. South Sea pearls come in white and golden shades. They are highly prized for their rarity and beauty in size. They are among the most valuable pearls in the world.

TAHITIAN (TAHITIAN)

This pearl is grown in black-lipped oysters, from which the pearls are harvested and appear black, but are actually dark grey to black with green or purple undertones, making them quite interesting and often the centrepiece of earrings, bracelets or necklaces. They are mainly found in French Polynesia and are known for their rarity and beauty. Tahitian black pearls are highly prized by collectors and are unique in colour and size.

 How do I choose the right quality pearls?

The variety of pearls makes it easy to find one that suits your unique style and taste. However, there are a few things you can do to ensure that you get a pearl that you will enjoy for years to come. 

SIZE 

When choosing a pearl, consider the size of the pearl you want. Freshwater pearls range in size from 5 mm to 13 mm, Akoya pearls from 2 mm to 10 mm, Tahitian pearls from 8 mm to 20 mm and South Sea pearls from 3 mm to 9.5 mm. South Sea pearls are generally considered to be the most valuable. 

FORM

Round pearls are the most valuable and desirable pearls because of their perfectly spherical shape. Semi-round pearls have irregularities that are not visible to the naked eye and therefore, although they may appear perfectly spherical, their imperfections make them slightly less valuable than round pearls. Pearl droplets resemble teardrops and, if flawless, can be incredibly valuable. Baroque pearls are irregular and inexpensive compared to other types. 

COLOUR

Pearls come in white, ivory, grey, champagne, purple, black, pink, green, chocolate, lavender or blue, with naturally coloured blue pearls being the rarest.

BLISS 

The more lustrous the pearl, the more valuable it will be, so always inspect the pearl in daylight or in the right light before buying.

SURFACE QUALITY

It is important to know that the more spots or discolouration on the surface of a pearl, the less valuable it is.

ESOTERIC PROPERTIES OF PEARLS

A pearl is a special and precious stone that not only adorns its owner but also has deep symbolic and esoteric meanings. Pearls are important in esoteric practices and are often used in meditation, spiritual healing and stone therapy.

Pearls are believed to attract love, money, protection and good fortune, and to protect against fires. It is a symbol of beauty and wisdom. Pearls protect motherhood, cure infertility, and help ensure a successful pregnancy and childbirth. It gives wisdom through experience, reduces nervousness, helps to accept love, speeds up the laws of karma, and binds couples firmly together. Pearls are also believed to promote fertility. Pearls also help one to understand one's true calling, give one confidence in one's own strength and faith in the help of the universe. The following qualities are attributed to the different colours: yellowish shades will help you find love, black will help you understand yourself and become famous, golden will help you become rich and pink will help you become lucky.

Pearls are believed to stimulate metabolism, reduce allergies, strengthen bones, teeth and all tissues, normalise heart rhythm, balance bodily fluids and regulate temperature, relieve stress and its related ailments, as well as fatigue and emotional fluctuations, and help to find inner balance.

Although pearls are the birthstone for June, they are perfect for anyone who likes to wear shiny, eye-catching jewellery. Pearl jewellery has the unique ability to match any occasion and any time period. Whether your wardrobe is classic or modern, this gemstone jewellery will subtly complement it. Pearls can be worn in many different ways. You can wear pearl necklaces, pendants, bracelets, earrings, rings and other jewellery.  And thanks to the many types of pearls, there is a pearl to suit everyone, from the classic white pearl to the elegant black pearl and everything in between.